Shakedown and Shaken Up, or On the Lam in Peru

We are amazed at the stark, barren desert landscape of Western Peru. Our goal today was to beeline it 500 miles to Lima, so we got an early start on the day.  There is nothing to entertain us along the way, and the highway allows us to average 60mph. As we travel south, we notice the differences in the Peruvian scene fromColombia and Ecuador...a marked increase in poverty, and lack development...truly, nature's bounty has not spread this far south.  

The events of this otherwise long, boring drive were significant to us, and validated the stories we read and were told prior to the trip.  Aside from the Cop in Honduras that was in on the border crossing scam perpetrated on me weeks ago, we have been treated honestly, fairly and respectfully by police n all other Latin American countries.  However, it's a different story in Peru.  We were pulled over three times for little or no reason, while the cops looked for any reason to give us a citation...i.e., we weren't driving with our headlights on...in broad daylight!  The first cop asked for money immediately...we played stupid and told him we didn't understand the infraction.  After several minutes of confusing conversation, he stopped rubbing his greasy fingers together repeating, mooney, mooney, and let us go.

The second shakedown happened at a toll station.  The cop was fixated on our papers, and asked for our proof of insurance.  The officials at the border did not say anything about the necessity of Peruvian insurance, so we did not pursue it.  Evidently, Peru does not offer temporary auto insurance for travelers, as other countries.  One must buy a one year polcy for $500US.  Obviously, travelers do not do this, and the police know it, and use this to prey on foreigners.  We argued, asked questions, played stupid, stalled, and finally, Jim turned angry at the Cop when pulled us behind the truck and stated that he needed $300US for the infraction.  We were not going to pay this, and he was obviously not going to let us go.  We ultimately settled for $50US equivalent in Soles, and he ripped up the ticket.

We felt like we were raped.  As I was furious in Honduras, Jim was equally bitter at the corruption of the Peruvian police.  

As we approached within 35 miles of Lima, late that evening in a small town, we were again pulled over by the Police.  This time they immediately cited us for the burned out light that hovers over the rear liscense plate.  Then, for the same issue of no Peruvian insurance.  These cops were even more assertive than the two previous crooks, and it was obvious we were in for a rough time.  Standing on the edge of the busy highway, they motioned us to follow them to a more secluded spot for the shakedown.  As we followed, we noticed that the road forked and they took the left fork, pulling over safely to the side.  Furious at knowing what awaited us, Jim looked at the GPS and noticed it directing us to the right fork.  The decision was obvious...we took the right fork, leaving the SOB Cops to watch us depart down the Freight Truck Only route into Lima.  We were delighted to leave the Cops in the dust and took satisfaction in bolting from the corrupt law enforcement system of Peru.  At the same time, we were angry and discouraged for the treatment we were getting, and were fearful of a very, very, long and stressfull drive through this country.

The reward of a night at the JW Marriott in Miraflorez, an upscale neighborhood in Lima put an end to the abuse of the day.  As much as we sought to experience the true nature of the countries we visited, it was cathartic to retreat to a little bit of America at the Marriott to and recover from the events of the day.